Older Revolver Safety ??

[pastprime]

I am thinking about replacing my Kel-Tec .380 with a .38/.357 revolver...I have read that the older S&W's and Colts have super nice, smoother actions than todays guns...

but I am wondering about the durability of the older guns....were they made of better or worse material (metal)??? I imagine the workmanship was better but if I find a nice older revolver I want to have confidence that it will handle todays cartridges and not fail....

Any thoughts on a 4" or shorter barrel model with a proven track record of reliability...

BTW, nothing against Rugers either...

[gwalchmai]

Yes. Find a gently used S&W Model 10, 13, 14, 15, 64, 65, 66, or 19. They'll last forever shooting .38 SPL ammo and the actions are like buttah.

[pastprime]

I have looked up some of those models....all look fine for my purpose...I'm figuring prices form $300-$400 for a decent one....not beat up...not NIB...is that a good ballpark figure to look for and offer???

[gwalchmai]

It depends on your area. Rural areas from individuals will be less. Here in GA you can still get decent 4" K-frames under $300. Shop around.

[pastprime]

I appreciate the reply...if you happen so see anything in your area in a S&W K 4" that looks good, I would be gratefull for a PM and I will follow up ....not a problem to ship to a local FFL here in NC....

Thanks..

[918v]

It's very very hard to wear out a revolver chambered for mild cartriges like 38 and 44 Specials, 45 Colt/ACP, etc. Just keep them properly lubed and they will last 100K rounds.

[gwalchmai]

I appreciate the reply...if you happen so see anything in your area in a S&W K 4" that looks good, I would be gratefull for a PM and I will follow up ....not a problem to ship to a local FFL here in NC....

Thanks..OK. Also check the classifieds at GT, S&W Forum, TFL, THR, etc.

[killarbb]

with the help of th IBOK i like the way my ruger gp100 turned out.

the trigger isnt quite as light(i can set off all primers with it), but it is exeptionally smooth. shooting it feels more like the double action pull on my tuned cz, or the trigger on my kahr.


dont overlook the GP100

[sparky241]

i had a S&W model 66 and a 19 both were exceptional guns

[BIGGUNGOBOOM]

Most of the revolvers that you are going to find will be just fine. I have seen very few "older" revolvers have problems with todays ammo. keep in mind that you are going to prob reload for this firearm so your loads will be nice plinking loads and should cause no damage to the gun "unless were talkin about some OLD OLD revolvers" trust your gut. I am a revolver guy, thats what i like to shoot and i have many. the only one that i really baby is my 70's model 29; 8 3/8 44 mag. i dont run the hootest rounds threw it. but all of my others get nice warm-hot loads.

the older smiths are built just fine and the gp100's are great to.

ill stop my rambling and just say
TRUST YOUR GUT

[chewy]

A couple of key things to look for when buying a revolver.
1) check the "lock-up" by seein' how much front to back "wobble" the cylinder has.
Just gently move the cylinder from front to back. A little os okay, it won't get better though (unless ya' get a Wolffe kit to address this, which is definately do-able).
2) At the same time check the side to side wobble on the cylinder. There may appear to be more than seems necessary, but fret not. Make sure the gun is un loaded of course, then pull the trigger dry firing it but keep the trigger pulled all the way back to the frame and check the wobble then. Most of the time, it'll be stiff, or stiffer than before. A little wobble may be acceptable. Subjective preferance though on that.
3) Check the Bore/Cylinder gap with a "what'cha'ma' call it" measurer that slips my nogin at the moment. (Used to measure the gap on spark plugs...c'mon guys. Help me out I forgets.) I usually like mine with a gap of .004, maybe .005 of an inch at the most. the Tighter B/C gap ya' got, the more velocity you'll get by a "wee" margin and the less possible flame cutting will occur over time. The Mod. 10 is fairly light in the flame cuttin' area, next to nothin' actually, but with magnum guns it should be considered. Well, that's what I look for when gettin' a revolver. I don't get revolvers I see on the internet soley cuz I likes' ta' check the above criteria. I see a lot of good deal too! But just err on the side of cuation I guess.

Hey 918V! Good to see ya' around again! I'l slap Princess T's butt for ya eh?

[gwalchmai]

Yeah, there's a real good revolver checkout link over at The High Road. (http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=1430)

[Sixgun Symphony]

When I get home I am going to have to post a photo of my 1878 Colt DA Frontier .45 revolver. It has a three digit serial number and yes, it's a shooter.