Anyone wax your Dillon 550 primer bar?

[gwalchmai]

Mine started dragging and sticking on the return last night, which usually means it needs a good cleaning, which I'll do tonight. It just occurred to me though, that wax may help. Anyone have any insights? Mo?

Thanks!

[BigSlick]

Uhhh... no.

Keep it clean, good ta go ;)

[DssG19]

Horsehair paintbrush every 500-1000 rounds and it'll feed good.

[MullahElRon]

I wipe it down some alcohol from time to time. A few granules of powdered graphite. Been doin' that for years, the primer system never been a problem for me. Toof brush an' some canned air spritzes in between.

[Steve Koski]

I ignore mine. Don't have no problems.

I take that back. If I ever chang primer sizes, I wipe the area up. Other than that, I ignore it.

[ustate]

I do the same thing as Koski, just wipe it down real quick.

[MullahElRon]

Dat might work, I be real sparing with doin' anything else like Koski. He ain't like the rest. He different.

[BigDog[RE]]

One of my 550's has no problems, and like Koski I only clean it when I change prmer sizes. The other 550 has to be cleaned and spritzed with air every 2-300 rounds. One of these days I'm going to figure out why.

[Murphy's Law]

From experience........trust me just use alcohol as someone has already noted and which Dillon tech supt would advise/tell you also.

[jawjaboy]

If I put anything on it, it would be powdered graphite.
.

[Steve Koski]

Unique and spent primer residue takes care of any graphite needs.

[cohutt]

get a carpenter's pencil and shade the contact points with it. cleaner than powdered graphite and no excess to turn your fingertips black

or wax the bitttch

[jawjaboy]

Q-Tip.

[MakeMineaP99]

Where's 918v when you need him?

[colorado4wheel]

;128281']One of my 550's has no problems, and like Koski I only clean it when I change prmer sizes. The other 550 has to be cleaned and spritzed with air every 2-300 rounds. One of these days I'm going to figure out why.

I had a sticking powder bar. It worked fine but you could tell it was not smooth. Occasionally (rarely) it would not pick up a primer because it did not retract fully or smoothly (I don't know which). I found that by loosening the bolts under the primer setup and just letting it find a new position all was good with the setup again. Give it a try. I normally do this with the primer punch raiesed but I did this with the handle at rest. Just a little movement to the left solved everything and made it real smooth.

[Brass Nazi]

Buy a loadmaster. Lubeing the primer arm would then be the least of your worries.

[Mogollon]

Spent primer residue contains some amount of powdered glass. It is there to shape the flame, does not get consumed. When you deprime, this falls onto the suface the slide rides on, and gets imbedded in the pores of the metal. When just wiping the parts off isn't enough, use steel wool or scotchbrite pad to lightly scrub the top of the frame as well as the bottom of the primer slide to loosen this residue, then wipe off with alcohol or bore solvent.

[djw]

Over the last few years I have had to do everything listed so far, including a bit of paste wax allowed to dry and polished before re-assembly. Really a pain to have it stick and not pick up a primer........puts a hitch in your giddy-up.

[gwalchmai]

I used just a dab of paste wax on the bearing surfaces of the bar and the plate last night. The effect was astounding. Doubled, nay, tripled my throughput. Winchester called and asked me to remove it out of fear that I would put them out of bidness. I called Grafs, PVI, and Wideners this morning and ordered their entire inventories of components.

Innerstin info about the glass, Mo. I worked through several grades of sandpaper down to Flitz on my bar and bearing and have it polished pretty well (and now waxed ;)). I also ocassionally run them through my brass tumbler with a load.