View Full Version : Dillon Taper Crimp Die
colorado4wheel
03-21-2008, 03:59 PM
What is the proper adjustment. I am used to Lee where I have a dial and I can set the die via a dial to just touch the case then add 1/2 a turn at most for my crimp. This is for 9mm BTW. Just need a starting point please. I will crimp and pull a bullet in the end.
colorado4wheel
03-21-2008, 04:45 PM
I found it. I still wonder about the proper way to determine my crimp on Lead Bullets. Anyone got some hints on that.
JLarsson
03-21-2008, 04:54 PM
For semi-autos and taper crimp, I don't use a real heavy crimp, but I also try to keep my case belling to a minimum. That way, I have as much "natural" case tension as I can, and then the crimp mostly irons out the flare.
Revolver loads are a whole 'nother story, of course.
colorado4wheel
03-21-2008, 05:12 PM
My method in the past is to pull a crimped bullet and check to see a very small ring around the bullet. I have found it difficult to measure but I can try again. It's big enough to feel with a nail.
Mogollon
03-24-2008, 11:41 AM
I cheat- put a sized, unflared, empty case into the last station. Pull the handle down. With your fingers, screw the die down until it stops on the case mouth. Lift up on the handle a bit, screw the die down an additional 1/4 turn. This is a real close starting point. You might go down another 1/4 at most. I don't change my crimp between lead and jacketed.
colorado4wheel
03-24-2008, 12:01 PM
Great, So I will start with a 1/4 turn and see how that looks.
thorn
03-30-2008, 10:48 AM
I use Mogollon's method, and once i've got it close i seat a bullet, crimp, then finally check it on a caliper. Get it over-sized but close, then lower the die in very small increments and keep using your caliper to get it perfect.
thorn
Blaster
03-30-2008, 03:00 PM
All you want to do is remove the bell you put on the case mouth earlier. The case wall tension holds the bullet, not the crimp.
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