Garand stock finish/refinish

[BigSlick]

OK fellas,

I gots ta deal wit a issue dat been hasslin me for a while.

I picked up a replacement Garand stock from Springfield a while back an put it on my baby.

Fit real good, feel real good, real nice all da way around.

Onliest problem I gots wit it is da finish ain't got dat been oiled 1200 times in da last 40 years look.

I need ta fix it. It walnut, kinda light lookin as you a expect from reasonably virgin wood. It has some kinda finish on it, but it's kinda light/thin, it ain't down in da wood like I thank it oughta be

How do I get it to da deep rich mahogany look witout makin a mess outta it ?

I gotta do da handgaurd too. It's all assembled, but I can break it down if I have to.

I been told mink oil, neet foot oil, true oil all kinda stuff.

I would like to avoid it leechin out all over da place in da hot sun if I can.

Some a ya bound to a done this.

Help me out some, so my Garand a look right.

[Coloradoglocker]

90 weight gear oil.

[Rick from kali]

if you can find some Raw Linseed Oil use that. try to stay away from the Boiled lindseed Oil as i put some on my 1866 winchester and after it dried all the way it got hard like shellac and real shiny....

Rick

[Steel Talon]

Lin speed oil from Brownells easy to hand rub on lighter side color freaking beautiful.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8004
ETA here is the web site.it truly is easy to use..
http://www.lin-speed.com/

Pure Tung Oil http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html will give you a darker color.

Frombys Tung Oil

Or the stand by

TRU-OIL from Birchwood-Casey

Peace
Steel Talon:coolgleamA:

[KCGunnr]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=5536&st=chestnut%20ridge&s=

Then several well rubbed-in coats of boiled linseed oil will give you that dark rich look.

[Tailgunner]

BS
There were a number of replacement stocks used by the arsenals when they did rebuilds in the late 50's and early 60's, including a number made of Beech wood. These tend to be quite blond in color.

[pastprime]

If you want a little redder color you might try Rite fabric dye disolved in denatured alcohol....you can buy a couple packs of different colors and mix them to get what you want....worked great on some crappy AK wood a couple times for me...just brush it on...dries fast and the more you put on the darker it gets...after you get the color you like, just put the linseed/speed, tung, Tru, or what ever other oil you want on it...gear oil would be OK too I think...It was the cheapest way I could find to get the "Russian" red I wanted......

[BigSlick]

Thanks for da info guys ;)

I did da next best thang, I called my buddy dat was a armorer in da Korean war time thru till about '60-'61 or so. He didn't do Garands, but he know a lotta guys. He say he gotta bud dat worked on Garands at da arsenal, doin mix an match an refurb's as he could.

He put in a call ta see what BLO they used an see if any still around. Also talked to another fella dat is inta furniture refinishin (like tables an such).

I figure between both a them I oughta be able ta get headed in da right direction.

Also, TG, thanks for da heads up about da Beech wood. I went lookin for some pics a dat. It ain't traditional in my mind, but man, I gotta say, some a dat is damn nice lookin.

Now I all confused, but I a do somethin.

I a snap some pics when I get a chance an do it a step at a time, so yall can keep me from messin up along da way.

Also seen where they is folks dat make a laminated stock for da Garand now too. Some look kinda funky, some look sweet, none are CGM approved, but dat's OK.

What yall thank about a laminate ?

Info say it a take almost 2 lbs off da weight, which might, or might not be good.

[creekwalker]

Lin speed oil from Brownells easy to hand rub on lighter side color freaking beautiful.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=8004
ETA here is the web site.it truly is easy to use..
http://www.lin-speed.com/

Pure Tung Oil http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html will give you a darker color.

Frombys Tung Oil

Or the stand by

TRU-OIL from Birchwood-Casey

Peace
Steel Talon:coolgleamA:

Agree on the lin-speed, true-oil and tung oil too. Have used all of them on M1's, M1A'a and M1 carbines, all turned out extra nice. Mostly though after I've leeched out the old oil, steamed out the dents and used either sand paper and steel wool or just steel wool I lay in some progressive coats of linseed oil that I steel wool off and finish up with a few coats of lin speed and some time in a hot glass box.

cw

cw

[Washington,D.C.]

The best Walmut stain for the correct Garand color.

http://www.chestnutridge.com/products/misc.asp

[Washington,D.C.]

http://www.chestnutridge.com/images/inv/MAWAL1.asp

[Mogollon]

We always used Potassium Permanganate in alcohol to stain military stocks a dark red, then hand rub tung oil to finish. This exactly matches the GI formula. BUT, I think potassium permanganate is a controlled substance now, as an explosive of some kind, maybe?

[xtimberman]

Lots of good advice above - all of it will probably work well. An oil finish on a gunstock is hard to mess up - unless you get impatient and try to apply the finish too quickly. If you apply too much oil and don't completely rub it into the wood, it'll dry into a gummy film that you'll have to take off with turpentine. If you apply coats too frequently, ditto. Better to apply 25 thin coats of oil over a couple of months than 5 heavy coats over a couple of weeks.

My favorite old oil finish concoction is the Gough Thomas gunsmith formula of 3 parts boiled linseed oil mixed with 1 part of real turpentine. I've used this as a new oil finish and as a touch-up and refresher for many old oil-finished gunstocks. The same proportions work well with tung oil too. The turpentine doesn't allow you to apply a heavier coat, but it speeds up the drying and allows you to apply the hand-rubbed ultra thin coats more frequently. Exposure to all of this stuff is bad! :smilewinkgrin:

xtm

[Anvil]

Thanks for da info guys ;)


What yall thank about a laminate ?

Info say it a take almost 2 lbs off da weight, which might, or might not be good.

Alot of people like the walnut but I say laminate is hard-core modern sexy on a main battle rifle.

Brown on brown laminate with russet leather sling and parkerizing... Fine as wine!

I'm so seriously considering a garand now...

[BigSlick]

Shoot one just once an you won't be able ta live witout it

One of the most hallowed experiences in all of shooting

[Anvil]

http://www.nationalmatcharmory.com/MVC-067S.JPG
http://www.nationalmatcharmory.com/Bottom_Lugs.JPG


A garand like that would match the 10/22 I built up for my son. (I haven't given it to him yet, still unfired).

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k154/bhpmarkiii/1022.jpg

[RenoF250]

http://www.nationalmatcharmory.com/MVC-067S.JPG
http://www.nationalmatcharmory.com/Bottom_Lugs.JPG


A garand like that would match the 10/22 I built up for my son. (I haven't given it to him yet, still unfired).
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k154/bhpmarkiii/1022.jpg

Get a rope!!!!!!

Just kidding I like the laminate look as well although not so much on a Garand (don't think I would do it). Give the solid wood a shot and I think you will find it adds character the gun that you don't want to do without.

For the refinish, I used Tung oil and linseed oil and I think it came out too shiny. If I do another I think I will use just Linseed oil. For color Minwax has a stain called "gunstock" that would look good. There are other gun specific stains as well. If you really want it to look old someone already said 90 weight. :)

[MONTEGOD7SS]

I always thought a sandy brownish stock sorta like a Weatherby Vanguard would be kinda neat on a Garand. Them old military rifles I sure do like, but don't like when they leak crap all over my nice gun case when it's hot out. My old Nagant is a greasy pig when it gets a few too many rounds ran through it too quick, but I love her anyway.

[jwp]

well the finish i use is the matte tung oil, takes about 4 coats originally and then coat about every 2 weeks for several months

ever boned a stock?

most now use pumice or 0000 steel wool or rottenstone to get final finish which works ok

another way is to get a rib bone with all meat removed [standing rib roast type] and allow to dry for several weeks - when dried use the bone to burnish the stock [rub the stock with light to medium pressure everywhere] - use the bone/bones after every dried oil application or to lower blood pressure or between casting bullets, ie a lot

you get the mile deep look to finish after 6mo or so

[Steel Talon]

ever boned a stock?




:yikes:

:rofl:

ST~:coolgleamA:

[Tailgunner]

I always thought a sandy brownish stock sorta like a Weatherby Vanguard would be kinda neat on a Garand. Them old military rifles I sure do like, but don't like when they leak crap all over my nice gun case when it's hot out. My old Nagant is a greasy pig when it gets a few too many rounds ran through it too quick, but I love her anyway.
To get most of the oil out, remove metal from the wood, and use a paste made from acitone and whiteing (ditamasious earth, the same stuff used in swiming pool filters). Slather the paste on, and place the stock in a warm place. Direct sunshine, trunk of the car parked in the sun, etc. The paste will turn dark, as it dries. Repeat until the paste stays white.
That is the least damaging, and most effective methiod of pulling the oil out of the stock. Myself I like to soak the wood in HOT water and dishwashing soap (scrubbing with a plastic brush helps too), rinse with more hot water and allow to dry in a warm place. I only soak in the first bath for about 15-20 minutes and the rinse water for maybe 5 minutes.

Some people like oven cleaner, but I don't like risking any structeral damage to the wood with caustics.

[BigSlick]

Does soakin it raise da grain any TG ?

[KCGunnr]

Over on the jouster forum, lots of discussin about how some put their stocks through the dishwasher to pull the oil out. Says it dries the stock out real good and even raises a few of the dents.

Some say even that doesn't raise the grain.
I think their full of $hit, water always seems to raise wood grain.

I wouldn't try it, jus because my wife would kick my butt, about the time her plates started smellin like BLO. :frown2:

[BigSlick]

Yeah, some guys take some stuff way too damned far with dishwashers.

I've heard da old story about runnin a Glock thru a dishwasher an a whole lotta ignerncy about cleanin brass in a dishwasher too.

If ya got a shop dishwasher, maybe dat a work on brass, but I really wouldn't be happy dumpin lead/primer residue in what cleans my dishes.

Heat, an moisture will raise da grain of most wood. Not sure about oil-soaked wood cause if it soaked in oil, I wonder if da water can even get into da wood. Sounds like da heat/phosphate removes da oils, but I'm just geussin wit dat

Gotta be a better way.

Like TG say, maybe a short dunk a work real good.

Turnin ya stock on da pots an pans settin an runnin it 2 hours an hittin it wit high humidity an heat jus don't sound good ta me

I don't know for real, jus a hunch

[MONTEGOD7SS]

To get most of the oil out, remove metal from the wood, and use a paste made from acitone and whiteing (ditamasious earth, the same stuff used in swiming pool filters). Slather the paste on, and place the stock in a warm place. Direct sunshine, trunk of the car parked in the sun, etc. The paste will turn dark, as it dries. Repeat until the paste stays white.
That is the least damaging, and most effective methiod of pulling the oil out of the stock. Myself I like to soak the wood in HOT water and dishwashing soap (scrubbing with a plastic brush helps too), rinse with more hot water and allow to dry in a warm place. I only soak in the first bath for about 15-20 minutes and the rinse water for maybe 5 minutes.

Some people like oven cleaner, but I don't like risking any structeral damage to the wood with caustics.

I will have to try this for sure! Got a greasy spot in my (?) nice fancy Bob Timberlake gun case that I swiped from my father-in-law cuz he had it lying on his garage floor, and it was a gift from me and the wife. He knows I got it but he knows we're both pissed that he didn't seem to care about a $250 gun case we bought him. Maybe this will keep Ole Greasy from doing that again.

[Tailgunner]

BS
Not that I've noticed.

[xtimberman]

BS,

Are you sure that the wood truly IS oil-soaked? Lots of US military wood is just very dark from surface oil and grime - but not completely soaked. If this is the case, use a product called Howard's Restor-A-Finish. I've used this stuff for many years, and it is magic for cleaning up antique gunstocks. I used it to clean up and enhance the reddish hues in the wood on a M1 Carbine recently. You find this stuff in 8oz. cans at antique malls and such places. It's harmless to wood and metal and you can leave the action in place to avoid rounding the sharp edges and snagging splinters. I use the Neutral color to slightly lighten wood, but you can bring out reddish streaks in lighter wood sometimes when you use Mahogany color. PM me for subtle details if you go this route.

When portions of the wood are soaked with oil, acetone will draw a fair amount of it out of the wood - and will raise the grain a little. Most people apply the acetone lightly with 0000 steel or bronze wool to smooth the raised grain. Have plenty of ventilation - few solvents kill brain cells and liver function more efficiently than acetone.

If the wood is truly soaked and dripping, a heat lamp will remove the excess. Done properly, this will take a long time and lots of careful attention. Rotate the stock frequently to avoid overheating and warping the wood. You might want to leave the action in the wood when starting the process - removing it later to get to the internal areas. Wipe off the sweating oil regularly and check frequently to see that the wood is not getting too hot to the touch.

It didn't get oil-soaked over night, so don't expect to remove it that fast. This process should be done every evening for a couple of weeks. As it progresses, you'll notice that smaller and smaller amounts of oil will be sweating out.

I've done this heat lamp treatment to plenty of antique guns that have become oil-soaked in the action area by being over-oiled thousands of times. It doesn't seem to harm a thing if you go slowly and with moderate heat.

xtm

[BigSlick]

Cool. :cool:

[RustyFN]

ever boned a stock?


Damn that brought back memories of the sex with a picnic table thread.:rofl:

Rusty

[Washington,D.C.]

The mildest Easy Off oven cleaner will do a good job of sucking out oil from an old rifle stock.

[Tailgunner]

The mildest Easy Off oven cleaner will do a good job of sucking out oil from an old rifle stock.

IF you don't mind risking the damage that the Sodium Hydroxide residue may do to the wood (or are you going to acid dip the stock to try and nuterlize the caustic?).

[Washington,D.C.]

IF you don't mind risking the damage that the Sodium Hydroxide residue may do to the wood (or are you going to acid dip the stock to try and nuterlize the caustic?).

That's only in the regular Easy Off. The milder Easy Off used to have a different name which I don't exactly remember but they had to change the name. The current name I think is "Fume Free" which has no Sodium Hydroxide.

[jwp]

old way was oxolic acid bath
hard to get now
you can wrap the stock in paper towels/put in a black plastic garbage bag and sit out in bright sun for several hrs to days [higher temps help] - on like 85+ degree days

anyone putting stock in dishwasher and not removing metal is risking serious rust

[Washington,D.C.]

Some info here

http://www.jouster.com/Bulletin/refinishing.htm

[Spinnerblade]

I used to get on some airgun forums alot, the Maccari one I believe, had some really iformative threads on stock finishing. If you have the time you might check around and ask some of those guys, or search around anyway.
I haven't shot my air rifles since I moved almost four years ago, so I haven't been keeping up with things airgun wise.
I do remember tung oil seeming to be the favorite, though.Patrick

[io_joe]

There is a stock cleaning forum on the Parallax Bill's C&R site: http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/101/t/C-R-stock-cleaning.html

A guy with the handle Cabinetman knows his wood.:lol:

If you can't find the "right way" there, then you are SOL.

[BigSlick]

I've been reading the info at CMP and Brownell's about stock finishes.

Lotta opinions, few agree completely.

Gonna do my spare handgaurd firt ta get a feel for it.

I ordered some of the Chesnutt Ridge stuff. Gonna give dat a try an see what it get me, then see where I go from there